Prelude

We were bit by the Alaska bug after our last trip.  On this trip we are exploring Anchorage, then traveling south to our ultimate event – an Alaskan Brown Bear photo safari at Hallo Bay in Katmai National Park.  There are additional pictures off the main menu.

Friday, July 23, 2004
Arrive Anchorage

Our air route is from Pittsburgh to Minneapolis, then on to Anchorage.   We arrive at 5:30, luggage arrives too, Yea!   We are staying at the Susitnta B&B which sits on a bluff overlooking Cook’s Inlet.  Linda is our hostess.   After a quick walk-about town we head to “Humpy’s” for some great Alaskan Beer and dinner – Halibut taco’s and the smoked salmon pate, yumm.

Saturday, July 24, 2004
Anchorage

We slept in until 8:30 (lighting is a challenge as it still light at midnight, so really messes up your internal clock), breakfast was fruit and cereal. After a few hours exploring downtown Anchorage’s markets and shops we had lunch on the deck of the Snow Goose (part of Sleeping Lady Brewing), largest outdoor deck in Anchorage.   A very nice setting!   The city is showcasing a ‘Salmon on Parade’ competition.  We’ve picked up a map of the salmon art locations and give it a go.  Later, after a nap on the deck of our B&B, we ventured out again to wander the shops with dinner at the Glacier Brewhouse.   Dick had BBQ Salmon and I had pepper-crusted Salmon in a Vinaigrette Sauce.   Glacier serves the most amazing bread pudding that I have ever eaten.   We enjoyed sunset at Elderberry Park where Dick shook hands with the Governor at the Governor’s Picnic earlier.

Sunday, July 25, 2004
Anchorage

Late sleep again – until 8:00.   After a nice breakfast of fruit and quick bread, we headed out for the day.   We rented bikes and had a nice 11-mile roundtrip out to the airport and back.   Part of the trail oversees where the great Alaskan Earthquake caused some major damage in 1964. Lunch at Rumrunners in town then headed over to a place we had heard about, the Bear Tooth Grill for dinner – it’s a great place with amazing Mexican food (in Alaska!).   Bear Tooth is a sister bar to Moose’s Tooth brewing.   Our lodging this evening is at the Mangy Moose B&B.   After a full day, we head to bed early.

Monday, July 26, 2004
Anchorage

At the Mangy Moose we slept in til 7:30.   Great breakfast, and location.   Met Bob and Doris from Indianapolis (they appear to be about 80) who drove their pick-up truck up from Indiana!   Hardy stock.  We spent a few hours at the Anchorage Museum – lots of really interesting exhibits and town history.   Dick was having dental issues, so we found a dentist and got some antibiotics (as opposed to the tooth removal the dentist recommended).   Our dinner the night before at Bear Tooth was so good that we ate there again.   Later, off to Chilkoot Charlie’s in Spenard – a not to be missed tourist trap downtown.

Tuesday, July 27, 2004
Anchorage – Seward

Bob and Doris remarked on our late night (we didn’t think it was that late!) over a great breakfast of fresh fruit, blueberry muffins, scrambled eggs with herbs with sausage and peppers.   After checking out, we are on way to Seward in the rain.   We took a detour to Girdwood and the Alyeska Ski Resort.   Not much there during the summer.   A stop at Portage Glacier was unfruitful as the weather and viewing conditions were poor.   Plus, the Glacier has receded so much it’s now too far from the viewing station for a good look.   Also along the way is the Alaskan Wildlife Refuge where injured and orphaned wildlife is cared for.   On site were Moose, Elk, Caribou, Sitka Deer, Baby Doe, Black Bear, Musk Ox, Buffalo, Bald Eagles, Owls and Porcupine.

After arriving in Seward around 2:30 we enjoyed a great lunch at Chilcutt’s on the dock – crab cakes and a salmon sandwich.   Harbor seals close by in the water kept us entertained while we dined.   Check into the Van Gilder Hotel, very quaint.   Dinner at Cristos Palace (Marguerite Pizza). Christos has a pretty cool, 100-yr old bar imported from San Francisco. Off to bed early for a change (must have been that late night).

Wednesday, July 28, 2004
Seward

We were awakened at 5 AM by a group of very loud fisherman, whose families must occupy our entire floor.   We held off getting up until 8 then breakfasted at the Ranting Raven across the street.   Fresh peach coffeecake, blueberry scone and excellent coffee.   Still raining, so we toured the renowned Sea Life Center.   Besides the normal focus on sea life in that area of Alaska, they also have a thought provoking exhibit on the damage caused by the Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989 and it’s impact on the ocean and sea life.   Later, we drove over to Exit Glacier and had a wonderful dinner nearby at Ray’s Boathouse – Smoked Salmon spread, Clam Chowder, Grilled Salmon special, Thai Seafood Medley and key lime pie, excellent.   Later, back in Seward, we took a walk down to the docks and saw 2 bald eagles.

Thursday, July 29, 2004
Seward – then to Homer

Much quieter this morning, the fisherman must all have gone back to their boats.   Today we are heading for Homer at the base of the Kenai Peninsula.   Along the way is Kenai village where we checked out the Visitor center and museum.   The area is known for fishing and a large caribou herd, but no sightings for us – they must all be on vacation.   Further south is a former Russian settlement of Ninilchik.  Very interesting little village that still retains some of it’s Russian Orthodox influence.   Our lodging in Homer is ‘Beesons on the Bay B&B’, a really cute spot on the spit. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at ‘The Homestead’ of salmon and halibut and made an obligatory stop at Homer Brewing to sample the local wares.

Friday, July 30, 2004
Homer

Gotta admit – breakfasts on this trip have been really special – today apple pancakes and sausages at the B&B in the good company of a couple from Indiana.   Homer is in Alaska’s ‘Banana Belt’ and the weather is great for walking.   We walked down the spit and lunched at Cups.   What a great place!   Excellent halibut tacos.   Dick was happy as they had Homer brew on tap.   We took a brief walk down Bishops Beach to work off some of the lunch, then wandered through many of Homer’s pottery shops and art galleries.   It’s surprising how developed the art scene is in this hard-to-get-to spot.   Near Bishops Beach is “Fat Olives”, a pleasant pizza joint (Veggie for us) where we sat at the bar and met a nice couple (Mathias and Nadine from the Republic of California) who turned us on to Klines, Red Truck wine.   No trip to Homer is complete with a trip to the “Salty Dawg” on the spit (yep, the ultimate tourist dive, but sometimes you just have to).

Saturday, July 31, 2004
Homer

Happy Anniversary to us!   After another nice breakfast, we run some errands and get the laundry out of the way.   It’s time to check in with Clint, the owner of the Hallo Bay Wilderness company, as we leave in the morning for our bear-viewing adventure.   One last cruise through Homer – another visit to Homer Brewing (to pick up t-shirts, yeah, right) and checked out the remainder of the art galleries.   For dinner, we took the “Danny J” ferry over to Halibut Cove and had a special anniversary meal at the “Saltry”.   A nice day.   Except for the laundry thing.

Sunday, August 1, 2004
Hallo Bay

We are up at 5am for our flight.  A bush plane takes us over to Katmai.   Yes, not only do they weigh the luggage, they weigh you!   The plane lands on the beach alongside the Hallo Bay Camp in Katmai National Park.   The plane gets in around 9 am and we are met by our guide, Jay.   With us is a couple from Switzerland. Hallo Bay Camp is essentially a base for photo safaris of Alaskan Coastal Brown bears.   Sleeping quarters are personal ‘fixed tents’ with wood floors and wood stoves for heating.   There is a ‘mess tent’ with an onsite cook who prepares all the meals as well as some pretty nice toilet facilities (at least for a wilderness camp).   We have a fun first day of viewing after we get our bear orientation.   Lots of things to consider.   Wildlife viewing was mainly coastal brown bears, with “Audrey”, a youngster, being the only female.

Monday, August 2, 2004
Hallo Bay

The breakfast tradition continues – excellent pancakes and sausage prepared by our cook Jeff.   Food always seems to taste especially good when camping (and when someone else is doing it)!   John, our new guide, arrives today.  John is a biologist from Colorado.   The couple from Switzerland leaves and are replaced by a couple from Purgatory, CO.   There is very active feeding viewed today as the salmon are really starting to run and the bears know it.   After dinner in camp, we continue our viewing until around 10pm as there is still plenty of light.

 

Tuesday, August 3, 2004
Hallo Bay

Pancakes and sausage again for breakfast.   The couple from Colorado leave in the morning.   We are now the only overnight guests and have John to ourselves.   We walk out to the primary viewing area on the flats in the morning – lots of activity and great photo-ops.   Back to camp for lunch and a short break. John takes us to a different area, the “Big Meadow” where we see a single bear and a couple of eagles.   After an early dinner we return to “Clints Creek”, a rich viewing area with many salmon running (and bears taking advantage).    We had a few close encounters.   A female charged the bank at our creek viewing area because 2 others bears were making her nervous.   Suffice to say she made Mary nervous as well.   On our walk back, a young bear caught a salmon and an older bear went after him.   Both passed right above us from the creek bank.   Also saw the “great chase” scene – a young bear caught a nice-looking salmon and an older bear wants it.   The chase starts down beach towards camp. After ¾ mile, older bear finally gives up.   After putting another ¼ mile between them, young bear finally gets to eat his fish.   Whew – this fishing stuff is tough!   We ran the bear gauntlet on the return to camp and had to kneel several times (a way to show submission).   At one point we were in the company of about 12 male bears.   We also saw “Haywire”, named for his manic behavior, catch 2 fish at once before eating them.

Wednesday, August 4, 2004
Hallo Bay

Since there are no overnighters in camp this morning, Jeff treats us to an omelet with reindeer sausage.   There a lots of day trippers in on first flight in and later six new overnighter guests arrive – Charles & Mimi (Florence, OR), Sylvia & Giovanni (honeymooners from Italy) and Steve and Herb from Tennessee.   We spend the rest of the morning and part of the afternoon at the flats watching the bears.   Our group went out again after dinner, but one of our, Mimi, became very nervous so we parked before reaching the creek.   We observed quite a bit of fishing by the bears.   On the walk back the alpha male (Teddy) walked right past us, 15 foot at most.   He’s a monster – John estimated maybe 1,500 lbs! Our female contingent was elated today – Audrey had a fight with a young bear in the afternoon and she won (Yeah – go girl!).   The guides track individual behaviors and have named most of the ‘regulars’ who are known by their distinctive marks.  Audrey’s is that her 2^nd claw on the left paw is higher than other claws.   Teddy’s distinctive marks are scar above left eye and down left cheek.   He’s hard to miss.

For the first time, the bugs were pretty bad – no wind.   We got back to camp around 10, late showers in the dark.

Thursday, August 5, 2004
Hallo Bay

We are supposed to depart this morning. Pancakes and sausage this morning, Jeff really excelled on the pancakes today.   Weather rolling in and a very low ceiling, plane makes it to Douglas then has to turn back, too overcast to attempt a landing on the beach.   We’re going nowhere today, Hurrah, extra day (fist bump).   After waiting a couple of hours to see if things change, Jeff takes us out to the flats for a couple of hours, bears around, but low activity since weather is kinda crappy.   The morning group got to see some wolves (not us though).   Rained all day, got a nice two-hour nap in.   Dinner of baked chicken and the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever eaten (got recipe).   Lots of fishing activity today, several bears got into it -both vocal and physical.   Audrey gets in yet another fight, but loses her fish this time.   A young bear surprises Mary in grass above viewing area (whew!) – very close, but harmless – he ran like hell.   There are tons of bears on the way back at the end of day.   We have another close encounter with Ted and get to see Audrey up close (so cool).   A nice day and we return to base camp around 10:30

Friday, August 6, 2004
Hallo Bay – to Homer

An early shower then breakfast of pancakes and reindeer sausage.  The plane late but on its way – that’s good as we are out of clean clothes.   We bid a fond farewell to Jay, John and Jeff – many thanks for an excellent trip.   We also bid goodbye to fellow travelers, Charles, Mimi, Steve and Herb.   Clint picks us up and deposits us at the houses, no farewell from him.   While in Homer, we picked up some pottery at Ptarmigin Arts for shipment back and lunched on Halibut tacos again at Cups Café.   After leaving Homer, we stop in Soldotna for fuel, underwear and film (have to have your priorities).   Our last lodging on the trip is at the Lake Hood Inn in Anchorage.   A neat Inn – it’s right on Lake Hood which is one of the world’s largest float plane bases and there are float planes leaving and arriving all the time.   We have a great view of the action from our deck.   Dinner is across the road at the Artic Road runner then an early night.

Saturday, August 7, 2004
Anchorage

Last day in Dodge, Mary sleeps in til 9am, Dick, of course, is up much earlier and takes a hike up part of the southside of the lake and watched the planes.   Mary is geeked about getting to use a hair dryer for the first time in 2 weeks (ahh, civilization).   After breakfast, we head up to the Saturday market in Anchorage. Mary found some nice earrings and Christmas presents for Tammy and Merry.   The annual “Irish’ festival was this weekend too.   We got in some last minute shopping at TJ’s (great t-shirts) and the Blue Moose and enjoy our final Alaskan cocktails on the deck at the Snow Goose.